Thanks Tim. She works even better than it looks:) Fritz you are the man!!! I'll get the lid on her this weekend, and send Fritz some fully completed pic's. I havent forgot about you guys that need cases. I should have them avaliable in a couple weeks. Shawn C
Brian, by doing that your capacitors on the control board will take too long to discharge and it will take about 20 seconds for your LCD to turn off. It might also cause some noise and spikes that will effect the Newhaven LCD. There is a work around for this by connecting a snubber to the switch but I suggest not to do it until it has been tested.
looking at shawns picture the 4 farad doesn't look hook up right? + should go to the cap? but it is going under the circuit board? real nice case. fritz i have been following you sense endless sphere,mine is on page 25. keep up the good work. let me know when the on lookers can get a board and files. thanks sid
I was wondering if someone would catch that:) The red spacer is on the wrong terminal. I didnt change it becuase it doesnt matter. The spacer is on the inside where nobody can see it with the lid on. The outside of the box will be labled with the correct + and -. Sid, you have an interesting conglomeration for a CD welder. Looks like there's enough energy stored there to weld two chuncks of rail road track together. hahaha;) Sid if you scroll down to the bottom of the screen Fritz has the board and files avaliable for sale. And there worth a hell of alot more than he's asking, IMHO... This welder ROCKS!! ShawnC
Brian, I dont have a good source for the switch, fan, weld connectors, or the pc type power jack. I used what I had laying around. If a person had to purchase these parts new or from a supplier they would be pretty spendy. I recommend using what you have in your scrap pile or picking out something new that you like. I'm willing to change the box cut file to suite (within reason). Or I can sell you a blank box with the cooling holes, LCD and pot cut outs only. The rest of the needed holes can be drilled and cut by the end user. If you guys would like to contact me feel free. shawncd1@msn.com I wont be ready to ship anything for another couple weeks. ShawnC
shawn that was my only post there, and because of fritz i took all of those caps out and replaced them with a 4 farad like fritz used, and it lowered the voltage by 2 volts to make a good weld. so that is why i am here as mine is single pulse and whould like a dual pulse.i still have a couple of questions,i use mine to make battery packs for my rc planes, that is what the fixtures in the pic are.also i kinda ask him about boards in my first post but i didnt think i could get any yet from other post. thanks sid
Hi Brian, I can give you my part numbers if you want them? Being a cadiologist money isnt likely to be a problem for you:)Let me know and I'll send them over. Thanks Shawn
Shawn, Are the welding probes made from readily available parts? If so, can you post the part number and part name? Or Can you elaborate on their construction because I am sure others are interested? Thanks, Jack
I made the mosfet board out of 3oz copper material to beef it up. This was my first PCB and it turned out well. It looks like I will need to drill and tap the heaatsinks for each mosfet. I made welding probes using Lenco welding cable splicers (CS-610)for the ends. I am also considering hardwiring the ends of the cables inside and avoiding the expensive connectors on the case. Good or bad idea?
Brian, 3oz is good and yes you have to drill and tap the heatsinks. Use the drill file. I would not hardwire my cables because it will make connecting tweezers and weld heads difficult.
Brian Steg, you can get the welding connectors, both male and female, on ebay for approx. $6.00 each...http://cgi.ebay.com/Dinse-25-female-chassis-mount-for-welding-cables-torch_W0QQitemZ180294041419QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item29fa5cbf4b and the male one is http://cgi.ebay.com/Dinse-25-Male-connector-kit-for-cable-torch-grounding_W0QQitemZ120328576116QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c04245c74
Fritz, good point,I will get connectors for the case. Dinse 25 or 50? I can't seem to find the drill file for the heatsinks. Shawn,I would like the parts list for the fan, switch etc to fit your cut outs for the case as it will make construction easier. Thanks
I promise I'll get you guys the parts list for the box. It will hopefully be tomorrow. My welder is at my shop which is off the beaten path and were in the middle of another f$ckin snow storm so if everything goes well I might be able to get to the shop around noon tomorrow. Damn I have a crap load of snow plowing to do....:( Jack the hand leads are made of 1/2" copper and the tip electrodes are 1/4". I dont remeber the alloy. I machined them on a lathe like you mentioned. The tips are changeable like you can see in the picture. The outside insulation is heavy wall adhesive lined heat shrink. I drilled the ends to fit the 4guage welder wire snuggly. I then heated the electode holder and filled the hole with solder. I then tinned the cable and slipped the cable into the electrode while both were hot. Dinse 50 weld connectors like you already know. If you dont want to mess with building them I have extra copper stock. I can build and sell these for $45 a set with weld cable, without Dinse connectors. If anyone has priced copper lately you know this is a pretty good price:) Sorry for the delay.. I havent forgot anybody I'm just a little swamped at the moment. ShawnC
Welder on off switch. 22mm hole. http://www.krausnaimer.com/0/c500/ms23.htm
Cooling fan. Globe A47-B15A15T3-100 http://www.globe-motors.com/a47t15.pdf I used a 110volt you may want to find one with the same frame size in 24vdc. I ran into problems using 110. The problems are now resolved, but you may want to take the easy route and get the 24volt. http://www.globe-motors.com/d47t10.pdf
Power socket. Delta Electronics 06GEEGBE Socket size 28mmX20mm
Fuse holder. What ever you choose.
I dont mind modifing the box to suite. Let me know if you would like changes made. Thanks Shawn
Very nice Shawn
ReplyDeleteThanks Tim. She works even better than it looks:) Fritz you are the man!!! I'll get the lid on her this weekend, and send Fritz some fully completed pic's. I havent forgot about you guys that need cases. I should have them avaliable in a couple weeks. Shawn C
ReplyDeleteShawn...Great Job on the welder! Clean, organized layout. Thanks for sharing. Jack
ReplyDeleteShawn, I wanted to know if you could post the ancillary parts we will need for your case such as the power switch, fan , the speaker you selected etc.
ReplyDeleteLooks Great!
ReplyDeleteAny reason not to use a 115 volt cooling fan powered directly off the power switch?
ReplyDeleteBrian, by doing that your capacitors on the control board will take too long to discharge and it will take about 20 seconds for your LCD to turn off. It might also cause some noise and spikes that will effect the Newhaven LCD. There is a work around for this by connecting a snubber to the switch but I suggest not to do it until it has been tested.
ReplyDeletelooking at shawns picture the 4 farad doesn't look hook up right? + should go to the cap? but it is going under the circuit board? real nice case.
ReplyDeletefritz i have been following you sense endless sphere,mine is on page 25. keep up the good work.
let me know when the on lookers can get a board and files.
thanks
sid
I was wondering if someone would catch that:) The red spacer is on the wrong terminal. I didnt change it becuase it doesnt matter. The spacer is on the inside where nobody can see it with the lid on. The outside of the box will be labled with the correct + and -. Sid, you have an interesting conglomeration for a CD welder. Looks like there's enough energy stored there to weld two chuncks of rail road track together. hahaha;) Sid if you scroll down to the bottom of the screen Fritz has the board and files avaliable for sale. And there worth a hell of alot more than he's asking, IMHO... This welder ROCKS!! ShawnC
ReplyDeleteBrian, I dont have a good source for the switch, fan, weld connectors, or the pc type power jack. I used what I had laying around. If a person had to purchase these parts new or from a supplier they would be pretty spendy. I recommend using what you have in your scrap pile or picking out something new that you like. I'm willing to change the box cut file to suite (within reason). Or I can sell you a blank box with the cooling holes, LCD and pot cut outs only. The rest of the needed holes can be drilled and cut by the end user. If you guys would like to contact me feel free. shawncd1@msn.com I wont be ready to ship anything for another couple weeks. ShawnC
ReplyDeleteshawn
ReplyDeletethat was my only post there, and because of fritz i took all of those caps out and replaced them with a 4 farad like fritz used, and it lowered the voltage by 2 volts to make a good weld. so that is why i am here as mine is single pulse and whould like a dual pulse.i still have a couple of questions,i use mine to make battery packs for my rc planes, that is what the fixtures in the pic are.also i kinda ask him about boards in my first post but i didnt think i could get any yet from other post.
thanks
sid
Shawn,
ReplyDeleteI am a cardiologist so my scrap pile is certainly different than ours.
Hi Brian, I can give you my part numbers if you want them? Being a cadiologist money isnt likely to be a problem for you:)Let me know and I'll send them over. Thanks Shawn
ReplyDeleteShawn,
ReplyDeleteAre the welding probes made from readily available parts? If so, can you post the part number and part name? Or Can you elaborate on their construction because I am sure others are interested? Thanks, Jack
I made the mosfet board out of 3oz copper material to beef it up. This was my first PCB and it turned out well. It looks like I will need to drill and tap the heaatsinks for each mosfet. I made welding probes using Lenco welding cable splicers (CS-610)for the ends. I am also considering hardwiring the ends of the cables inside and avoiding the expensive connectors on the case. Good or bad idea?
ReplyDeleteBrian, 3oz is good and yes you have to drill and tap the heatsinks. Use the drill file. I would not hardwire my cables because it will make connecting tweezers and weld heads difficult.
ReplyDeleteBrian Steg, you can get the welding connectors, both male and female, on ebay for approx. $6.00 each...http://cgi.ebay.com/Dinse-25-female-chassis-mount-for-welding-cables-torch_W0QQitemZ180294041419QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item29fa5cbf4b and the male one is http://cgi.ebay.com/Dinse-25-Male-connector-kit-for-cable-torch-grounding_W0QQitemZ120328576116QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c04245c74
ReplyDeleteRegards, Jack
Fritz, good point,I will get connectors for the case. Dinse 25 or 50? I can't seem to find the drill file for the heatsinks. Shawn,I would like the parts list for the fan, switch etc to fit your cut outs for the case as it will make construction easier.
ReplyDeleteThanks
Brian, use your drill file for the PCB. Select the middle pin of every mosfet, to mark the spot on your Heatsinks to drill and tap.
ReplyDeleteI promise I'll get you guys the parts list for the box. It will hopefully be tomorrow. My welder is at my shop which is off the beaten path and were in the middle of another f$ckin snow storm so if everything goes well I might be able to get to the shop around noon tomorrow. Damn I have a crap load of snow plowing to do....:( Jack the hand leads are made of 1/2" copper and the tip electrodes are 1/4". I dont remeber the alloy. I machined them on a lathe like you mentioned. The tips are changeable like you can see in the picture. The outside insulation is heavy wall adhesive lined heat shrink. I drilled the ends to fit the 4guage welder wire snuggly. I then heated the electode holder and filled the hole with solder. I then tinned the cable and slipped the cable into the electrode while both were hot. Dinse 50 weld connectors like you already know. If you dont want to mess with building them I have extra copper stock. I can build and sell these for $45 a set with weld cable, without Dinse connectors. If anyone has priced copper lately you know this is a pretty good price:) Sorry for the delay.. I havent forgot anybody I'm just a little swamped at the moment. ShawnC
ReplyDeleteHi Guys, below is list of what I have in my box.
ReplyDeleteWelder on off switch. 22mm hole. http://www.krausnaimer.com/0/c500/ms23.htm
Cooling fan. Globe A47-B15A15T3-100
http://www.globe-motors.com/a47t15.pdf
I used a 110volt you may want to find one with the same frame size in 24vdc. I ran into problems using 110. The problems are now resolved, but you may want to take the easy route and get the 24volt.
http://www.globe-motors.com/d47t10.pdf
Power socket. Delta Electronics 06GEEGBE
Socket size 28mmX20mm
Fuse holder. What ever you choose.
I dont mind modifing the box to suite. Let me know if you would like changes made.
Thanks
Shawn
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDelete